Olympic National Park: Hoh River to Third Beach

Olympic National Park: Hoh River to Third Beach

Trace the rugged coastline past dozens of sea-carved rock formations on this five-star weekend trip along the Olympic Peninsula.

Author:	Backpacker Magazine
Date:	27 May 2008 8:06:00 PM
Activity:	Hiking ActivitySearchHiking
State:	Washington (WA)
Distance:	16.3 mi (Change units)
Elevation:	Total Gain: 3483 ft Total Loss: 3263 ft Net Change: 220 ft
Difficulty:	7 / 10
USGS Topo Map:	Destruction Island, Hoh Head, Toleak Point, Quillayute Prairie
Tags:	Waterfall Hikes, Olympic National Park, Forks, Olympic Peninsula, Washington
Rating:	3 rating(s) Rate it

This classic, 16.3-mile shuttle hike starts out along the Hoh River and winds northwest, traveling across lush rainforest and miles of pristine coastline in Olympic National Park. Plan your trip around the tides. You’ll descend steep slopes on rope ladders, maneuver around driftwood piles, and cross marshes on cedar boardwalks. Keep your camera handy—crashing waves, giant cedars, and towering sea stacks are frequent sights throughout the trip.

Caution: Do not try to round headlands without knowledge of tide heights and times. Bring a tide chart and a detailed topo map.

Note: Wilderness Camping Permits are required for all overnight hikes on the Olympic Wilderness Coast. Pick up the required bear canister and wilderness permit at the Olympic Peninsula National Park Wilderness Information Center in Port Angeles.

-Mapped by Kari Bodnarchuk

TO TRAILHEAD: Start: From 8th St. and S. Lincoln St./US 101 in Port Angeles, WA, head southwest on US-101. In 70 miles, turn right onto Lower Hoh Rd./Oil City Rd. Follow road for 10.3 miles to trailhead parking area.

End: From 8th St. and S. Lincoln St./US 101 in Port Angeles, WA, head southwest on US-101. In 54.2 miles, turn right onto La Push Rd./WA 110. Go 11.6 miles to trailhead parking lot.

Position Format:	Datum:

Tracks

HOH01

Dist: 16.29 mi	Points: 1524	Calories: none
Time: none	Speed: 0.0 mph	Pace: 0:00 / mi

Hoh River to Third Beach

Points of Interest

HOH001

Location: 47.749199°, -124.417831°
From the trailhead on the northwest side of parking lot, follow dirt and pine needle-covered singletrack along river, and cross a bridge. In 0.1 mile, ford a small stream. Beautiful views of the Hoh River appear on left as trail climbs and traverses a hillside (steep cliff-like drop on left). Sea roses and purple hyacinth grow along trail.

HOH002

Location: 47.750000°, -124.430748°
Trail emerges from forest next to the swift-moving Hoh River. Turn right and follow rocky, pebbly beach along riverbank to the ocean and turn right again, heading north. Crashing waves and four sea stacks can be seen in the distance on the left. Ahead: Hike along the beach beside a driftwood graveyard, where massive logs have washed up onshore; scramble over a boulder field of conglomerates as you round the first headland (you can walk along the beach during this stretch when tides are lower).

HOH003

Location: 47.761600°, -124.450546°
Trail skirts a headland marked by Diamond Rock, a triangular sea stack (caution: 2-foot tide). Next, enter Jefferson Cove and walk along beach blanketed in tiny pebbles (makes for difficult walking); more boulders and sea stacks offshore. Pass a small waterfall on steep hill to the right, and a cliff-like bluff straight ahead.

HOH004

Location: 47.766788°, -124.456749°
Trail veers inland for 3.5 miles at the end of Jefferson Cove; look for trail marker at the foot of the headland on right (near the waterfall and rocks). Pack away hiking poles and climb a vertical rope and wood ladder up cliff side. Caution: Wooden steps are extremely slippery when wet or muddy. Muddy path switchbacks up hillside several hundred vertical feet through a dense forest of pine, sitka spruce, and ferns; wild roses and salmonberry bushes dot the path.

HOH005

Location: 47.766899°, -124.460052°
Pass a campsite on the bluff surrounded by thick forest; pine needles blanket the ground and oxalis (a large, 3-leaf, clover-shaped plant with white flowers) lines the trails. Ahead: The trail levels off as it crosses the headland; downed trees carpet the ground; the sound of waves comes back into earshot.

HOH006

Location: 47.770935°, -124.467865°
Begin easy descent along rooty, pine needle-covered trail through areas with tall ferns, salmonberry bushes, and giant blowdowns. Cross small stream; trail turns to clay in sections and crosses a second stream before passing huge trees with flying buttresses at their base.

HOH007

Location: 47.774700°, -124.470268°
Cross stream (good water source), and then tackle a very steep, switchback climb up log steps; listen for an amazing variety of bird song. Next, descend through mossy forest with giant blow-downs; dogtooth violets blanket area flanking the narrow trail.

HOH008

Location: 47.791550°, -124.480118°
Admire views of the ocean and sea stacks, before tackling a short, steep climb (revealing more incredible views of a sea stack to the south and others offshore). Follow boardwalk over marshy area filled with skunk cabbage; hike down log steps and along muddy, rooty, clay-covered trail where ferns and oxalis line the path; you'll hear the crashing of waves.

HOH009

Location: 47.797352°, -124.481064°
Trail passes a level, shaded Mosquito Creek campsite on a wooded bluff overlooking the crashing ocean and sea stacks; established fire pits, and toilet; refill water reservoirs in nearby creek.

HOH010

Location: 47.798832°, -124.482414°
From Mosquito Creek campsite, head north through the woods past a rustic outhouse. In 0.1 mile: Drop onto beach and ford Mosquito Creek, then walk north along the beach for about 2 miles. Savor views of the flat-topped Alexander Island to the west, sea stacks and headlands to the north, and a hillside blanketed in dense vegetation and to east. Pass several triangular sea stacks—one of which is shaped like a shark's fin.

HOH011

Location: 47.814018°, -124.487717°
Depending on the tides, you'll either scramble over giant driftwood to the right of the tree-topped sea stack or hike along a sandy stretch to the left of the sea stack.

HOH012

Location: 47.824215°, -124.503380°
Turn right at bull's-eye sign located to the right of rocky bluff (you can see a hole in the rock at low tide). Leave the beach and begin a steep scramble that switchbacks up the hillside to an overlook with stunning views of beach, islands, and rock pinnacles. Ahead, tall ferns overhang narrow, rooty trail that opens up with views down into a gully. Cross boardwalk over a marshy area choked with skunk cabbage, rock-hop across a stream, and then hike through a tunnel of vegetation. Pass several giant sitka spruce, whose lower trunks are encased in moss and lichen.

HOH013

Location: 47.828251°, -124.511818°
Ignore the trail on the right and continue straight; ford 20-foot-wide Goodman Creek. Re-enter woods and hike through dense forest alongside Goodman Creek (on left). The trail passes a small, plunging waterfall on right. Ahead, ford Falls Creek and continue hiking uphill past a small stream and area with skunk cabbage and giant fallen trees (look up and see ancient red cedar tree).

HOH014

Location: 47.831848°, -124.521767°
Descend 30 feet down a rock face on a vertical ladder (caution: slippery when wet). Head north along sandy beach with views of Alexander Island to the south, jagged sea stacks to the west. Continue north to Toleak Point.

HOH015

Location: 47.834332°, -124.540947°
Pass great camping spots above high-tide line at Toleak Point. From here, follow sandy beach around half-moon-shaped bay with views of at least a dozen spectacular sea stacks off the next point and dozens of seaweed- and barnacle-covered rocks dotting the bay. As you pass another shark fin-shaped sea stack, keep an eye out for bald eagles.

HOH016

Location: 47.845882°, -124.550453°
Strawberry Point: Gaze at fantastic views of the sea stacks around Toleak Point. The beach transitions from fine sand to rocks until the next (unnamed) headland.

HOH017

Location: 47.853668°, -124.558250°
Hike around headland on very rocky shore (caution: 4-foot tide); take in views of Giants' Graveyard, a cluster of sea stacks, islands and rock pinnacles. Halfway down the next bay, beach turns sandy again with giant driftwood trees pushed up against the hill on right.

HOH018

Location: 47.859882°, -124.557785°
Ford Scott Creek (good water source) on logs or by rock hopping, and then turn right at bull's-eye marker and head inland for a short, steep climb around Scotts Bluff. Travel through tall forest of sitka spruce and thick, head-high underbrush; giant roots break up the muddy trail.

HOH019

Location: 47.863499°, -124.558167°
Use the provided ropes to rappel down the steep hillside to the beach below; head north along the beach (alternates between soft sand and little pebbles).

HOH020

Location: 47.867382°, -124.567520°
Taylor Point: Plan to get into the cove at low tide (4½-foot tide area) to access the trail that heads inland (look for bull's-eye marker on tree). Climb up roughly 90 steps that lead out of the cove and into a forest of salmonberry bushes, clusters of ferns, oxalis, and tall old spruce. It’s a steep and steady climb through humid forest; pass a clearing and campsite on the left, then cross a creek on a split log.

HOH021

Location: 47.874924°, -124.577110°
Pass a campsite on the hill before descending through forest; climb down two sets of stairs and ladders to the southern end of Third Beach. At the southern end of the beach, a waterfall and finger-shaped rock pinnacle are surrounded by sea stacks. Follow wide, sandy beach north along embankment on right. About two-thirds of the way down the beach, look for the bull's-eye marker indicating where the trail disappears inland again.

HOH022

Location: 47.878033°, -124.588036°
Turn right onto trail that crosses a small creek and heads inland. Switchback up wide, well-trodden dirt and gravel path; hillside on the right is blanketed in oxylis. Trail passes a small stream on left and levels out for an easy, gradual final ascent through forest of sitka spruce, hemlock and alder to the Third Beach parking area.